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Aura Comm - Vol 5 - Issue 1
Bangkok, Thailand
September 8, 2005
Hello my dear friends,
It is indeed bad luck to walk behind an elephant. Did you all know that already? Actually upon first thought it does make a great deal of sense. A mere two hours after my arrival in Bangkok, I traversed through the Muslim section rich with exotic hookah smoke, musky curried spices, lively conversation, and hypnotic Arabic music floating in the unforgiving humid night air. An elephant led by his colorful owner attempted a maneuver to turn around in a very tight alley...
Occasionally a Thai entrepreneur will slowly lead these smelly beasts of burden through the streets hawking sugar cane so tourists can feed them. As this beautiful creature slowly and methodically performed his routine turn I impulsively decided to briskly walk around him from behind to continue my evening stroll. Instantly and without warning this grey quivering mass took two quick steps back towards me nearly pinning me to the wall.
My heart quickened, there was a collective shout in Thai and Arabic as I felt my arm tugged to immediate safety. The gawkers fell into laughter that I can only say was completely embarrassing. "Farang" a smirking man says, "Bad luck to walk behind elephant." (Farang means foreigner in Thai.) And with that new treasure of knowledge I sheepishly purchase a coconut from a street vendor and while sipping the sweet milk my red face heads back towards the hotel.
Magnetically drawn to the international newsstands, the apocalyptic aftermath of Katrina is front and center everywhere. Headlines for La Republica proclaims "Rescuers Intensify Efforts", The Weekend Australian shouts, "Hurricanes trail of anarchy, troops ordered to shoot to kill in New Orleans", The Bangkok Post blares, "King to send rice to victims of USA Disaster". As I stand mesmerized next this to stunningly visual overload of suffering a Thai man to my right quietly speaks in broken English, "Our tsunami, no looting, and look at USA. Who is more civilized?" Quite surprised by these words I was of course speechless. (He must have assumed I was German or Australian, as those comprise most of the farang here.)
The sheer organized chaos of Bangkok I find to be more overwhelming then in the past. The traffic jams are immense and quite tedious. This area is all too quickly becoming more and more corporate Americanized. Perhaps during my past visits I was so enamored by the Thai culture and beauty that I subconsciously dismissed this Western encroachment. McDonalds, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Colonel Sanders, 7-Elevens and the ubiquitous Starbucks are friggin everywhere. And the street prices for clothing and other goods have shot up. Some items Americans can buy for less money at Wal-Mart through cheap Chinese labor than you can buy here now. This fragile world economy appears to have it's own storm intensifying.
Bootleg DVDs abound. The 40 Year Old Virgin, Wedding Crashers, Dukes of Hazards and about any flick you could possible imagine even yet to appear on the screens back in the states are all available here on the streets in pristine packaging. Every one has the appropriate copyrights printed in all its glory. You basically flip through a book of high quality colorful empty covers, and then a runner zooms off to some undisclosed destination and returns within minutes with the DVD. No wonder Hollywood executives are in a panic. Price: 100 baht (about 2.50US)
A parade of disfigured, blind and lame cruise the streets begging for money. The blind tend to have a portable boom box strapped to their chest. As they hold a tiny microphone to their lips singing traditional Thai music, these angelic voices are some of the most beautiful I have ever heard. A friend escorts them through the tourist throng and I am duly impressed with their sheer tenacity and talent. The lame drag their legless bodies on the sidewalk by their elbows hold up a beggars cup as they move painstakingly inches at a time. The scene is truly pathetic and I am grateful to empty my pockets of spare baht.
A word to wise to you smokers out there that may visit Bangkok someday. I witnessed a farang throw his cigarette butt onto the street and as he proceeded to stomp it out with his foot, he was immediately manhandled by two Thai police officers and taken to the local precinct a few yards away (which is basically a little phone booth style kiosk on the streets). Curious, I watched as he was chastised for his actions and informed it was against Thai law. Adamantly protesting that he knew nothing about this rule did not impress the officers. His fine: 1500 baht (about 37.50US)
The petrol stations now must close 2 hours earlier every evening in what appears to be futile attempt for people to drive less. Just earlier this year the price was 48 Thai baht per liter and now up to 68. Cabbies opine passionately about how difficult it is to make ends meet for their families. This experience we have the US in indeed a global phenomenon.
So I decide I must find respite and travel deep into the Thai countryside. After numerous options are considered I hop a bus and we're off for a 140-kilometer ride to the old city of Ayutthaya. In its 17th century heyday, this former capital city of Thailand was flourishing in architecture, art and culture for more than 417 years until its destruction in the 18th century by the Burmese. (There have been 51 wars between the Thai and Burmese over the centuries. Thailand only lost two of them.) As we head out of Bangkok and pass the Grand Palace, our guide points out the location of the largest gold Buddha in the world. Five and half tons of pure gold. (Refer to Aura Communications Volume 4 for more fascinating information on this story.)
Boasting 32,000 temples in Thailand the countryside is stunning with its distinctive architecture and bright color. As the sun strikes these golden ornate houses of holy the result is a feast for the eyes. Passing an enclave of beautiful houses our guide casually informs us this exclusive location are the homes for many rich people, corrupt politicians and drug dealers.
This rich land transforms into picturesque fields of rice paddies, indescribably gorgeous Lotus flowers blooming abound and powder blue skies filled with graceful storks. A land of wonder and beauty that one might imagine when ancient Siam comes to mind. In the fertile muddy fields rice production takes 3 to 5 months, three for the short grain, five for the long grain. Ultimately the grain yellows and it's a glorious family affair to harvest with a machete. The dramatic difference between the haves and the have-nots is quite apparent here, yet the tropical bounty of fruits and vegetable support these people very well.
We pass by a well-know crematorium that is the size of a huge factory. Our guide in a feeble attempt to add some levity to this somewhat ghastly sight and smell says, "This is a good place to visit, but not a good place to go since it is a one-way ticket."
In its 17th century heyday, this former capital city of Thailand was flourishing in architecture, art and culture for more than 417 years until its destruction in the 18th century by the Burmese. (There have been 51 wars between the Thai and Burmese over the centuries. Thailand lost only two of them.) In 1767 as the Burmese aggressors mercilessly plundered the capital city, they took many of the golden Buddhas and Thai treasures back to their homeland during their rule. The Thai valiantly fought back and within one year succeeded to push these temporary conquerors back north from whence they came. The once glorious city of Ayutthaya is utterly destroyed. The Thai leave these ruins and proceed to build a new capital, which is now known as Bangkok. ("Bang" means city.) I'm told the old city was not used for a long time until the King came back to visit. (This is the time-line for the well-known story of "The King and I".)
In 1860-1869 the old city was rebuilt somewhat and we first arrive at the Bang Pa-In Summer Palace in Ayutthaya. A charming yet unusual collection of pavilions built in Thai, Chinese, Italian and Victorian architectural styles and surrounded by beautiful gardens and peaceful lakes. (When foreign dignitaries would visit they had a feeling of home as they took residence in these classic constructions.) It has served as a summer place of Thai monarchs since the end of the war. Trees abound with evocative Plumaria flowers. A unique bush featuring tiny white flowers reveals reddish-orange pollen inside. The Indian name for this useful plant is Parichat. It is said that long along when monks wore white linen robes they would get dirty quickly from traveling the dusty roads. So this flower was discovered to produce a dramatic saffron color that to this day is used to dye monks robes. This is the origin of the monk colors in Thailand and India.
Thirty-three Kings have ruled Thailand and people here believe that each one is the reincarnation of the Hindi god Vishnu. There is an interesting blend of Buddhism and Hinduism in that is quite unique in Asia. Many have converted to Buddhism yet they still have much faith in aspects of Hinduism. I am surprised to discover the Portuguese were the first to come to Thailand in the 1600's and many Thai words are based on the Portuguese language.
As cars pass our bus I notice a few bumper stickers stating in Thai and English, "Save the Elephants". It appears these gentle creatures are in danger of surviving due to the expansion of civilization. This provides much less natural food sources for the growing herds. There is quite a program here to rescue them and I am encouraged by the commitment of local farmers to feed many daily with sugar cane, bananas and tender loving care.
We arrive at the ruins of Wat Phra Sri San Phet. (Wat means temple.) Built in the 14th century this is the largest temple in Ayutthaya and once served as the royal palace by several Kings of Siam in the past. It is absolutely mesmerizing to wander these hollowed grounds and witness what remains. Drawings displayed on small billboards indicate how the structures appeared before their destruction. Although basically a pile a bricks for as far as the eye can see, many stupa (sacred spires) containing ashes of previous Kings are intact and the sacredness of the land is apparent. I felt as if I walked with the ancients.
Many kilometers later, our last stop is Wat Chai Wattanaram. Built in 1630 by King Prasat Thong. These ruins feature a huge prang (stupa-like, but with a rounder top) surrounded by smaller ones, symbolizing the legendary Mount Meru, the abode of gods.
Here nearly all the stone Buddhas have their heads cut off, not by the invading Burmese, but by unscrupulous looting Thai merchants stealing them away to Bangkok to sell as extremely valuable and expensive ancient artifacts. Our guide states passionately that to this day the Thai are very angry at such a transgression. While I wander these hallowed grounds another tourist stands behind a headless Buddha, placing his head on top as his girlfriend takes a photo. Immediately the guards warn him severely for such an irreverent display. They say this can bring him very bad luck.
We are taken to a nearby port where I embark on the Grand Pearl at Wat Photaeng Tai Pier. The 3½-hour cruise along the Choa Phraya River will return me to Bangkok. Although quite humid, time stood still drifting along the mighty river. Lounging on the top deck I mindfully observe with deep contentment the Thai countryside, architecture and temples. (I guess I wasn't mindful enough as I soon discovered this white shaved head was ferociously sunburned. Thank God for Trader Joe's Aloe Vera gel!)
With my spirit fulfilled and my body exhausted I quickly fall asleep back at the hotel. My early morning cab whisks me away to the bustling Bangkok airport. Soon I am heading north over the sparkling sea of Bengal heading towards Bangladesh. As I enter the airspace of Eastern Nepal my skin tingles at the upcoming sight of the majestic Himalayas. Coming home again to the land I love so dearly brings joy to this pilgrim's heart.
Copyright © 2005 William Aura/Aura Imports All Rights Reserved.
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