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Aura Comm - Vol 4 - Issue 3
Kathmandu, Nepal
January 24, 2005
Nameste,
For those of you that have written and not heard a reply, please be patient. I am only able to get to a working cyber cafe every few days if I am lucky. For you see I still have difficulty in adjusting to the rhythm of things. You would think after living here four times I would get it. The pace many of us are used to in the US is so deeply ingrained into our day-to-day life we hardly ever think about it.
Much less is accomplished here each day than you could possibly imagine. And the efforts are often extraordinary. I usually collapse in bed every night. Let me explain a bit how this all works...
First of all, every activity takes at least three times as long as you would guess. For example the Adhikari family (Rashmi's family) has no running water, plumbing or heat. To take a bath they must carry buckets of water from quite a ways away, heat it over a fire and pour in a large basin. This takes hours, with much physical labor involved. The traffic is often at a horn-blaring fume-inhaling stand still. (They call it "jam-jam") Just to get to certain parts of the city takes often over an hour and the distance is not that far I assure you. (A motorcycle is the obvious transportation of choice.) Then there is the language barrier. Communication is often misunderstood and all that comes with that, especially getting quite lost. Electricity fails whenever it wants to. Protest strikes can occur at any time blocking roads for hours. The Internet connection is God awfully painfully slow here. I may never get used to that. What I can do in the states in 10 minutes easily can take one hour.
This time of the year the days are short also. Pitch dark by 5:30 pm. I cannot keep my eyes open much past by 7pm or so. I am wide-awake by 2am or so. (That is when I do these writings basking in the glow of my halogen heater.) There is no nightlife. There is no going out in the evenings. Not wise now. (That is when I would go to the cyber cafe during past visits.) Vehicles and their occupants are subject to rigid searches in certain areas of this old city after dark. There are heavily armed militia checkpoints every few blocks and it is serious business.
Did I mention the roads? Or what is called a road? Deep crater-like potholes, full of muck and debris everywhere thanks to the sporadic monsoons. My feet are often wet and extremely muddy. If I sound like I am complaining I am not. For I truly enjoy being with the community here and respectfully join their world. Here, everyone takes all this in stride. What to do? I simply wanted to share how fortunate we have it as westerners. Through the Buddhist practice of mindfulness these truths slowly become apparent. So please, I ask for your understanding if you do not hear from me for a while. (I do love each and every one of your letters more than you will ever know!) And for goodness sake, please enjoy the roof over your head, your toilet, toilet paper, clean drinking water, hot water, shower, refrigerator, healthy food and air, heat/air conditioning and driving your own personal vehicle. I do look forward to saying hello to these conveniences upon my return.
Let's talk about synchronicity for a moment shall we? Shyam heard me playing Nepali music on my laptop and with a surprised smile quickly exclaimed, "That is Sur Sudha! They are the most famous band in Nepal!" On my first visit in 2002 I had discovered this delightful album of Nepali folk music entitled "Sur Surdha - Festival Music of Nepal" and purchased it. These three musicians joined forces almost 20 years ago with the aim of interpreting and presenting the myriad musical tradition of Nepal in their country and the world. Acting as cultural ambassadors for Nepal, they have played thousands of concerts, traveling from the steps of ancient Hindu temples to the concert stages of Europe, India, Japan and the United States. Considered a favorite by the Royal Family they have performed many times at the King's palace.
Over the years my collection of music from Nepal, India and Tibet has grown considerably. When I play the music back in the states I am immediately transported through time and space to the Himalayas. This album quickly became my favorite. My wife loves it also. I must have played this disc over a hundred times. The musicianship is world class and the traditional melodies are absolutely delightful. (I highly recommend you check them out and their music at www.sursudha.com)
Later on Shyam, Rashmi and I are at her father's Thangka shop looking over some absolutely mind-blowing new Tibetan paintings. (I must say to sit under a single dim bulb, sipping milk tea and taking in their beauty is truly a joy.) That is when Shyam mentions that one the members in the band go to his college and he would be happy to tell him of my deep appreciation for their music. Of course I ask immediately if there is any way I could meet him personally and said he did not think that would be possible. They are very famous he said. (I get the feeling they are revered here like the Nepali Beatles.)
We are off then for a noon appointment at Little Star studio (the owners name) to schedule my upcoming recording session and discuss which artists he recommends. He is truly a treasure trove of musician connections in the Kathmandu valley. Of course my dear friend Nepali flute player Rueben Shrestha who recorded with me last year, is called and confirmed. (He is absolutely spectacular!) A sarangi player and keyboardist is suggested by Little Star and once all are confirmed for Sunday's session, I fire up the laptop and proceed to play tracks from the new 3rd Force disc. (Recorded here in his studio last year.) With a wide smile both Little Star and Rashmi beam with pride as they hear their efforts mixed with my western family of musicians. It was a wonderful feeling of interconnectedness. I just love how music brings us all together. No language barrier whatsoever when it comes to music. This is a privilege indeed to be able witness.
Inviting Shyam and Rashmi to come along I decide it's time to travel to Thamel for some clothes shopping. Woefully unprepared for this unrelenting and bitter cold I went on the prowl for a down vest and cashmere scarf.
Shyam wisely bows out of this adventure since his cough is still quite severe. He decides to try to find some warmth somewhere and get a much-needed rest. (As mentioned early, none of these folks have heat of any kind. Most do not. Often spontaneous tiny fires are lit on the side of the road with the less fortunate crowding around for protection. Almost everyday I read in the Kathmandu Post about deaths that are reported from the cold.) Thankfully Rashmi joined me because not only does she translate well she also helps me get a fair price. You cannot pull anything over on this kid.
Walking through this tourist trap maze of mom-and-pop shops, hounded by drug dealing sharks and assorted riff raff, we stumble upon a tiny stall named Sur Sudha Music Shop. (By the way, when a lone drug dealer walks next to me in quiet whispers offering to sell their infamous Nepalese temple hashish, Rashmi raises her voice and speaking in lightning quick Nepali, shakes her finger in their face and reads them the riot act like you have never seen. And she is almost half their size! I can't help but feel sorry for this publicly humiliated man as he bows his head and scurries off down dark litter strewn alleyways.)
Anyway, I ask Rashmi if this shop has anything to do with the band Sur Sudha and she did not think so. She thought it was only the name for the store since the words loosely translate to mean "Pure Music". So I say let's go in and to our surprise we are told this shop is indeed owned by the band and all their albums are available, as well as a huge selection of the best of Himalayan music. With great glee I have them demo many albums for my consideration. Speaking in Nepali, Rashmi tells the shopkeeper of my devotion to their music and that I am a music producer from America. He offers to call Surendra (the founding leader and tabla player) and before I know it I am on the phone with the "John Lennon" of the band himself. As I share with him a little bit about myself and what a fan I am of their music and intention I observe Rashmi and others in the shop getting quite excited by our lengthy conversation. The moment did feel quite surreal.
Surprisingly he offers to come down to the shop and pick us up to visit his partner's studio. They have some Japanese music promoters in town and are giving them a demonstration. He asks if we would like to join them. So we meet over milk tea and I discover he speaks excellent English as they have toured all over this planet. We have a great conversation and I can't help but think of him as a long lost brother or something. Touring their humble but quite effective studio I met his partner Prem Rana who plays flute and Tara Bir Tuladar who plays sitar. (These three musicians I assure you are considered the finest in Nepal.)
Before I know it, after a few moments of meticulous tuning, they are off on a 30-minute magic carpet ride of music splendor. There were only three Japanese guests, Rashmi and myself present for this up front and personal masterful performance. Song after song I knew by heart and could sing along with. There was a time where it all appeared to be a dream as I fell in and out of a deep trance. I wish I had the words to express the feeling of joy for this very privileged experience. Looking upon Rashmi's lit face she appeared the happiest I had ever seen. (She thought it would be impossible to ever meet them. And to think just the day before I had asked Shyam for a potential introduction.)
Afterwards I was invited to play a few of the tracks from my upcoming 3rd Force album Driving Force. I introduced Rashmi as an aspiring young singer and cued up the song she recorded last year. They we very impressed and wanted to hear more. After hearing a DJ scratch in one breakdown, Surendra asked me to play that same section over again. (Thanks DJ Radius!) They loved it. An idea was proposed to get me on the local FM radio station heard throughout the entire Kathmandu Valley, play some of the 3rd Force album and give an interview. Surendra says he will call and do his best to make those arrangements and asks Rashmi (now proudly acting as my production assistant) to call Monday to verify if an interview can be arranged. Wow, sounds good to me. Then the ultimate idea was proposed to collaborate on a recording and I thought it just couldn't get any better than this. It was really quite an exciting time as this afternoon connection took us far into the evening.
But it did get better. Surendra suggested he could have some opportunities for Rashmi to help them occasionally as a production assistant and possibly more recording. This greatly surprised her and she was taken aback by this truly incredible offer. (I will admit I too thought this was an unbelievable blessing. Now she has something to look forward to and work towards. I am so happy for her. Tears well up in my eyes as I look upon her hopeful and eager face. (This type of career opportunity is highly regarded in the US, let alone here.) Leaving the studio with a hearty nameste we disappear into the cold and dark embrace of the old city. Somewhat still in shock, she thanks me profusely for bringing her such luck. I told her that it was her merit and good deeds that brought this opportunity to her also. She contemplated those words, simply smiled and thanked God. The force is with us.
The next morning I am greeted by Rashmi and her father and invited to their local movie theatre. (They call it a "movie hall") There is a big Bollywood Hindi film by the name of KISNA that is having it's first showing and they wanted to treat me. Now I assure you this is a very big deal and the gift is a generous one, for the expense of a movie for an extended family is simply too expensive for many folks. (90 rupee per ticket - $1.25US) They had not seen a movie in many years. Shyam meets us there and with great pride personally describes their beloved movie hall. It has two screens he exclaims with enthusiasm. Do we have anything like this in the USA he asks? (Shyam's deep dark cough concerns me. He has little protective clothing so I give him my scarf and gloves, which he reluctantly accepts.)
There are a few differences. First of all security. You are completely and utterly searched and frisked at the entrance by a male and female soldier. (Um. No Maoist allowed obviously.) They are also just as crazy about not having you take any food or snacks into the theatre. I had just given everyone an Altoid mint that they required us to spit out before we walk in. Ha. Never saw that one before. (Rashmi's little brother was clearly a fan of these mints. He said it was like eating toothpaste, which his family says they catch him snacking on often.)
The movie hall was very clean and quite nice. Someone made a substantial investment into this building and the contrast between this theatre and the disheveled surroundings are quite stark. It was interesting to see something that we take completely for granted being such a source of pride for the community here.
The movie is scheduled for 9:30 am. (No movies run in the evening as everything is closed down tight because of potential Maoist raids.) At 50% capacity and about 10 am nothing has started yet. That is when the rowdy but fun-loving crowd takes matters into their own hands and collectively starts yelling at the projection room to get their act together. It is really quite a community event and I must admit I found myself enthusiastically joining in the shouting match.
As the only foreigner in the entire building I did stick out like a sore thumb. (Everywhere I turned I was being checked out with quiet whispers.) Somehow though I felt like part of the family and soon found myself going with the flow. When the film would start running poorly or the sound would be momentarily lost the theatre would echo with shouts. (I blurted out "louder!" one time and many laughed. Then others copied me and yelled "louder!". It was a hoot.)
Let me give you a heads up on movie experiences here. These films often last over 3 hours with a brief intermission. It is quite an investment of time and energy. I will say that with no subtitles to sit through this long of a film spoken only in Hindi is an interesting challenge. The film KISNA is an incredible feast for the eyes and ears. The story is set during the British occupation of India and the partitioning of Pakistan and India. An extremely controversial and powerful time in history for many in this part of the world I can assure you. (Shyam tells me of his deep sadness upon seeing how the Hindus and Muslims violently clash when the British initiate the creation of Pakistan.) It did run through my head a few times that I wanted to stand up and turn around and shout out that I am not British. (I mentioned that idea to Rashmi and she appropriately punched my arm. I am not sure my sense of humor is always fully appreciated here. Ha!)
The music and dancing is absolutely world class and mesmerizing! Some parts of the story were quite obvious and at other times I thought what the heck is going on? Thankfully the family often prompted me with cues. There were times when the hero of the film was looking to save his true love but could not find her. The audience would start yelling at the hero telling him where she is. The interaction between the audience and the film was quite interesting and I found it to be good old community fun.
Afterwards back at the guesthouse I continued my production for the next days upcoming recording session. Rashmi watched with tremendous enthusiasm as I manipulated loops in the computer and started developing a song. I gave her some lessons and turning the computer over to her to practice creating a groove herself she did amazing well immediately. Excitingly she states she never even dreamed this was possible. I knew these lessons would help her be better prepared to assist in any potential production work for Sur Sudha. As I watched her awe-struck face glued to the computer screen auditioning the sounds available for her consideration I am touched by her innocence and gentle nature. I am deeply grateful to be considered a family member. Although it is very cold on the outside, I am warmed inside by the love freely given by these sweet dear sweet people. It has been a rich and rewarding experience these past few days and I am at peace within self.
Copyright © 2005 William Aura/Aura Imports All Rights Reserved.
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