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AuraComm 4.5
Aura Comm - Vol 4 - Issue 5
Delhi, India
January 30, 2005
Tashi Delek,
When one travels away from their family here it is customary to receive special prayers and blessings from the elders. A bright red powder is placed on your forehead (third eye) and the top of your head (crown chakra). Rashmi's father performs this special blessing with great emotion, as this is his daughter's first sojourn outside her native land of Nepal.
A garland of flowers and Tibetan scarves called Katas, are place around our necks as prayers are offered to the Hindu gods to protect us on our journey. This timeless tradition is actually quite wonderful to receive...
Our taxi whisks us away for the airport and the last I see is her father and little Shyam holding their hands prayerfully in a deep felt nameste. Security is absolutely complete and thorough. This too is a new experience for Rashmi as she is starting to see how it is to travel as a tourist. The women are searched separately of the men and I see she is always keeping an eye on me and does not want to get separated. I feel deeply responsible for her safety as I represent her father with great pride and sense of duty.
After numerous checkpoints we sit in the lobby waiting for our Delhi flight as news accounts of recent Maoist activity and tragedy is announced. Kidnappings and ambushes are all reported in an even tone like a weather report. Very sad.
Of course she wants a window seat and as the flight attendant instructs us on how to fasten a seatbelt Rashmi has hers backwards and cannot make it work. I patiently show her how to do it and as it snaps in place with a comforting click she smiles. We take off and instantly the Himalayan vista is absolutely breathtaking. To see the top of the world always brings me a deep feeling of solace. Her face is glued to the window in marvel at witnessing her homeland from 30,000 feet. This panorama of beauty lasts for another 20 minutes or so until we gently glide over the wide expanse of incredible India.
This is when the air pressure starts to make her feel quite uncomfortable. With a grimaced face she cups her hands over her head and looks to me for a solution. We try gum, and yawning widely to no avail. The final technique of holding your nose with your mouth closed and blowing with pressure inside your head does the trick. As her ears pop she smiles with relief.
Upon arrival in Delhi, my main concern was that we could get separated during the long lines at immigration, as the Indra Gandhi International airport is huge and foreboding. She is quite short and would be difficult to see. Thankfully the lobby traffic was unusually light and before we know it my dear friends Yangzom and Yega warmly and tearfully greet us with katas. As I receive the kata from Yega and gaze into her eyes, she quickly turns away with tears welling. Oh gawd. This is going to be an emotional visit I can see that. It is all too easy for me to go with that program also. With the best composure I can muster I escort them to our awaiting taxi assisting Yega with her slow and painful walk due to her polio affliction.
Tashi is in class and will join up with us in the morning I am told. Immediately bonds are forged with Yangzom, Yega and Rashmi. Through my introduction, they have chatted on line a few times and are all very pleased for this face-to-face connection. As we traverse through the swollen traffic of Delhi for what seems like eternity, these three precious souls discuss their studies, music and share insights into their culture. (Having raised three fine sons, this was a wonderful new experience for me. One I enjoyed very much.) As I ride in the front with my turban wearing Indian driver I notice the volume and excitement rise in their voices. Since Rashmi does not speak Tibetan and Yangzom and Yega does not speak Nepali, English becomes the language of choice with a few broken Hindi phrases thrown in. I listen with great interest myself as they chat away. Looking out my window their voices become a background drone to this marvelous and perplexing city. Until you ride the streets of India there is no way to fully describe such a sight. More people than you could possible imagine swarming in this chaotic dance of life. So much poverty. The smell of pollution and garbage stings your nostrils as you find yourself breathing shallow. Every stoplight brings begging children with agonizing faces banging on your window. I thought I could get used to it but I cannot. This is both a joyous and painful ride.
Everyone is excited about Tashi's birthday tomorrow. They explode in laughter when I say I've traveled halfway around the world for a piece of cake. (They often laugh at my corny jokes. Or are they just being courteous I wonder?)
Our conversation turns to their sponsors. Yangzom warmly describes her beloved Scottie la to all, Yega speaks of Sherry la and many other contributors for her upcoming operation in deep respect, and Rashmi proudly speaks of her friend and supporter Linda. (Rashmi at first confused is explained by Yangzom that the Tibetan word "la" is placed at the end of a name as a term of endearment.) This topic is a rewarding one. The sponsors receive just as much from them I say softly. This concept perplexes them since they feel they have nothing to offer. The act of spontaneous giving brings joy and is the reward itself for in Buddhist terms this act is called developing bodhichitta (developing compassion). This is my practice and the practice of their sponsors I say. All three gracefully smile as they quietly pause to ponder this insight.
Our mutual Tibetan friend Passang Tsering will not be here in Delhi to see me I am told. He was in a motorcycle accident a few weeks ago and is recuperating with family members in the lush Kangra valley just south of Dharamsala in northern India. His back injuries although initially thought to be severe are improving Yangzom says with relief. Since we met, this very sweet and extremely quiet young man has been keeping in touch with me over the past year. His first trip to Nepal last May (in a failed attempt to earn money for his school fees) brought him a traumatic experience. Machine-gun brandishing Maoists boarded his bus at the border and left him stranded by the side of the road with no food for two days until another bus picked him up. When he finally arrived exhausted in Kathmandu I took him and Rashmi out to eat and they subsequently became on-line buddies. She is noticeably disappointed he will not be here and concerned for his health. (I'm quite sure she has taken a liking to him. He's a very nice Tibetan boy she says.)
Passang is in desperate need of a sponsor for his school fees if he is to continue his education. He is 23 and a second year college student with honors. Quite articulate in his emails Passang is hard working and extremely dedicated. He is also one of the most humble and gentle souls you will ever meet. His desire to become educated and help his Tibetan community is the fire that keeps him going. He certainly deserves a sponsor. About $50-$75 per month will greatly help offset his expenses and the financial hardship placed on his family. A minimum six-month commitment is requested. (Of course any one-time donations would be deeply appreciated. A little money goes a long way here my friends.) Write me for more information if you hear the call. Last December Lori Lewis generously donated some funds for me to direct to whoever is in need. Half of her contribution is lovingly given to Yangzom to personally deliver to Passang. Thank you Lori, this gift will be received as a tremendous blessing. I'm sure you will hear from him.
Yangzom excitedly talks about her first job she started recently. Selected out of many who applied, her hours are from 6:30 pm until 2am five nights a week. This is perfect for her as she can continue her studies she says. I notice how much more mature and confident she has become since I first met her over two years. Then she was a shy country girl with little skills and big dreams. Now through the continued support of her Scotty la she has blossomed into a strong and confident young woman. It warms my heart to see such a transition. She describes her job as working at a call center. (Basically it is a telemarketing company that sells to Europeans and Americans.)
Campaigns change and she says many are often angry that she calls. (Sound familiar?) She has not sold anything yet. Working conditions are barely adequate and the pay is absolutely miniscule. The bus commute is only 1 1/2 hours each way she says. (Believe me an Indian bus ride is something none of us in the states could bear.) To her this is a great opportunity and she does so with pride.
Over an hour and a half later we finally arrive in the part of Delhi known as Majnu-Ka-Tilla at the New Aruna Nagar Colony, the primary Tibetan community in Delhi. Ushered to the newly built Sakya House (whose profits help support Tibetan causes), I am grateful Tashi has reserved rooms. Normally it is not difficult to get a room in one of the many guesthouses here. The highly venerated Losar (Tibetan new Year) is coming up soon and New Camp (as they call it) is absolutely brimming with families arriving from all over India to celebrate this three-day event.
Gifts are taken out of my bags and immediately shared with Yangzom and Yega. This exchange is always a joyous time. Yangzom is quite surprised to receive a portable CD/MP3 player for her long rides on the bus. Yega stares in disbelief as I present her with a digital camera so she can share photos with her sponsors via Yahoo. These are items they could never afford on their own. Cards and messages on video from their beloved Maria la is presented and received in prayerful appreciation.
Yega presents me with a long Hindi shirt (later I'm referred to as "baba" by numerous Hindus when I wear it.) A beautiful bed cover and a darling little outfit for Ella is also gifted with a beaming smile. Yangzom presents me with lovely Rice bowl and wooden spoon. These gifts although quite cheap by our standards are very expensive for them. I try to discourage such things, yet I am torn as I can see it brings them much happiness to offer something in return. We feast on tasty vegetarian mo mos and say our goodbyes for the evening as they disappear in a local tuk tuk to their youth hostel.
One thing about this region I adore so much is waking up to the distant chorus of Hindi prayers gracefully sung by some nameless local. It truly is a beautiful way to start the day. The almost acrobatic wiggle in the melody is distinctively Asian and never fails to bring a smile to my face. (As I turn my strained neck I do realize I did not sleep that well on the "monk bed" in my room. These spartan quarters although neat and clean have a very thin pad on a hard surface.)
Rashmi meets me for a tasty breakfast consisting of eggs, toast and milk tea for 30 rupee. I present her with some pocket money generously provided by my dear friend Kiva. She is extremely grateful and with that we venture out into New Camp where she proceeds to buy her first little purse to put her money in. As we walk back to the guesthouse I immediately spy Tashi on his way to meet us. With a big hug and loud shouts of Tashiman and Auraman our reunion is sweet indeed. Many of you may know that Tashi is the first student I was blessed to find a sponsor for. He adores his beloved Maria la. In deep respect he calls her mom.
Over three years ago I met him in Dharamsala as he quietly observed me photograph children at the refugee center. His self esteem at that time was uncommonly low. Having no family he was quite isolated even in his own community. This bright young man had a terrible time during his plight from Tibet in 1996. Traveling with a best friend on the six-week ordeal through the treacherous Himalayan snow pass, his friend tragically slipped away into the night and perished. Arriving in Nepal absolutely hungry, cold and traumatized Tashi was then welcomed by Nepali bandits who robbed him of every little possession he had. To see him now after these years of love, support and education is to not recognize the same person.
Tashi does not know when he was born. Today is the birthday of Maria's father and he respectfully selects that date as his. That is why I am here. It is time to celebrate. First of all I cheerfully present him with the many gifts I've brought from his mom. Cards are opened slowly and deliberately as he pours over each and every word. Clothing is happily received and immediately worn. He states with a big smile, "My mom now knows my size now."? (As the previous clothes given were way too large.)
We wait for Yega and Yangzom to join us at the appointed time of 11am. They fail to show up by 1pm and we reluctantly decide to head out into the expanse of Delhi ourselves, leaving them a message on where to join us. Tashi has his motorbike and wants our taxi to follow. After a few miles Rashmi excitedly says she wants to ride with him and respectfully asks my permission. Here's where I am challenged. Representing her father I must make a decision that I think he would make. (It is difficult to say no as she is so charming. Only having experience raising three sons I am finally getting the idea that daughters know their fathers are a soft touch.)
Motorcycles are the number one transportation of choice in this smog-infested traffic-snarled city and no helmets are required for the rider. Entire families ride on these things. Beautifully dressed Indian women in saris ride sidesaddle with no fear. I must tell you it looks insane, but I have rarely seen even the slightest accident except for a few minor bumps. (As compared to my arrival last year in California where I witnessed three terrible accidents on the freeway due to a few drops of rain. What's up with that?)
So we pull over the taxi and off she goes. Into the milieu of traffic swallowed up immediately not to be seen for another nerve-racking 20 minutes. With a lump in my throat I was overwhelmed with second thoughts as to my decision. After we ultimately catch up with them and with my common sense finally returning I instruct her back into the taxi. Her hair tangled she is wild with excitement and shouts with wide-eyed enthusiasm, "He drives very fast! I loved it!"? I pop an alka seltzer into my water bottle and drink in deep gratitude to God. (Later back in Nepal her father told me he would have surrendered to her pleas also. Whew!)
After 70 minutes of Delhi drive time we arrive at a restaurant called 'The Big Chill" to celebrate Tashi's birthday. I'm concerned that Yangzom and Yega have not shown up yet as I know this day to spend together was very special for them. (Yega rode 6 hours on the bus just to meet me at the airport.) So we wait in cue for a large table as this popular place is absolutely packed with Yippies (Young Indian people with influence) yakking loudly with even louder Western music blaring. ("Me and You and a Dog named Boo" is a fine example of the "hits"? played.) With this generation cell phones are ubiquitous. The walls are covered with Western movie photos and their specialty is pizza and ice cream. Someone knew what the heck they were doing when they developed this hot spot. They could not serve the food and desserts fast enough. With rupees flying everywhere it is simply unbelievable to witness.
Finally by 3pm I see Yangzom and Yega enter this establishment. Happy to see us they apologize and explain that they have been hoping various buses since 9am! Due to recent fuel increases there is a tuk tuk strike and unable to afford a taxi they had to take a convoluted route of tedious bus connections. Looking exhausted (especially Yega with her handicap) they happily settle in to the celebrative chaos of "The Big Chill". I told them if that ever happens again do not hesitate to take a taxi, as I will pay. They accept the gesture reluctantly as they make no assumptions on such matters. As students they must very prudent in this vast city. Every rupee counts and there are none to spare.
We order pizza and share the good times. As the only aged Anglo in the place I did stand out with giggles and stares all around. Soon I found myself in the zone and enjoying myself tremendously. Corny song after corny song was blasted too loud and lip-synced by all. The pizza was the best I've ever had in Asia and to their amusement after I wolfed down my portion, I ordered two more. It was a surrealistic way to spend the afternoon I assure you. I look at these fine students laughing for now without a care. It becomes apparent Rashmi is bonding beautifully with my precious Tibetan family. Happy Birthday to you Tashi! May all your dreams come true my friend!
Copyright © 2005 William Aura/Aura Imports All Rights Reserved.
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